Inferi Riserva 2012, Montepulciano by Marramiero

I have had the fortune of reviewing the Inferi Riserva of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from the Marramiero estate several times. Initially the first two vintages, dating back to the first half of the 1990s, the 1993 and the 1994. On those occasions I commented on this wine's aptitude for aging and the surprising way in which it evolves organoleptically. More recently, at the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo preview event, I tasted the Inferi Riserva 2013, very young and not yet on the market.

Now on the market, however, is the 2012 vintage of the Inferi Riserva, the wine I will try to describe today. The grapes come from the estate's vineyards situated at 270 metres above sea level at the Masseria Sant'Andrea di Rosciano in the province of Pescara, between the Adriatic Sea and the Maiella massif. The grapes are grown using the pergola abruzzese, a vine-training system that reduces solar radiation on the clusters, promoting the development of polyphenols and aromas.

This traditional training system has been maintained only in the historic vineyards dating back to the 1970s, planted on clay soils with an optimal south-east exposure and a density of 1,600 vines per hectare. The vines, now fully mature, have a deep root system that allows them to withstand the driest periods and to draw mineral substances, nutrients, and water from the soil for optimal grape development. The younger vines are instead trained using classic trellis systems, such as guyot and cordone speronato, training methods that deliver better yields in less favourable vintages. The overall yield is nonetheless low, not exceeding 70 quintals per hectare, while the harvest is typically late, at the end of October.

In the cellar, the long maceration on the skins takes place at controlled temperature, maintained between 25 and 30 °C, during which large quantities of carbon dioxide are produced. After pressing, the ageing process begins, first in stainless steel for approximately 18 months, during which malolactic fermentation also takes place. Maturation then continues in French and Slavonian oak casks of various sizes for a further 18 months. The wine is then bottled and allowed to stabilise for at least 6 months before being released onto the market.

The 2012 vintage was characterised by heavy winter snowfall that ensured substantial water reserves in the soil. These events were followed by periods of intense spring cold and a recovery in grape development during the summer. The ripening of Montepulciano, which is a typically late-ripening variety, was favoured by rainfall in early September and by the subsequent particularly sunny days. These weather conditions allowed for the perfect phenological development of the grapes which, at harvest, displayed a remarkable richness of extracts, with natural sugars exceeding 20%. The Inferi Riserva 2012 presents an alcohol content of 14° and an acidity of over 6 grams/litre.

Let us move on to the tasting notes.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Inferi Riserva 2012

In the glass the wine displays a beautiful dark ruby colour with garnet glints. The intensity of the colour reveals the full anthocyanic richness of the Montepulciano grape. When swirled, it forms very dense arches, with tears that descend slowly, a sign of the wine's imposing structure. After aerating it briefly in the glass, the Inferi presents a powerful and complex aromatic spectrum. Immediately notes of violet, then fruity aromas of ripe plum and wild berry jam. Then notes that hint at the beginnings of tertiary development, such as tobacco, spices of pepper, cloves and cardamom, graphite and hints of liquorice. It closes with a long balsamic finish of eucalyptus. On the palate the wine is dry, warm, round and enveloping, with a beautifully crafted tannin and notable acidity, a clear indicator of great youth. The gustatory-olfactory persistence of balsamic character is extremely long. A wine just coming into its own but already nearly balanced and harmonious.

A Montepulciano that, to fully reveal its quality, will require patient cellaring for a few more years. And one that will not fail to continue to impress and move, certain as we are of its ageing potential.