Anna Maria Abbona, Dogliani and Dolcetto

We are in the south-western Langhe, in the Dogliani area. The territory is particularly suited for growing Dolcetto grapes and borders the Barolo production zone, the King of Wines made from the noble Nebbiolo. The Dolcetto di Dogliani was, however, the wine of President Einaudi, a native of these lands who brought renown to this part of Piedmont.

The Dogliani territory, situated close to the Maritime Alps and the Ligurian Apennines, consists predominantly of well-drained white soils, tufa and calcareous marls. The breezy climate, fresh and balanced, is ideal for vine cultivation and especially for Dolcetto. This cultivar is characterised by its high sugar content and polyphenols. At the same time, it does not normally stand out for high acidity. For this reason, the wine obtained from Dolcetto grapes would not usually lend itself to long ageing — but with appropriate canopy management, and rigorous temperature control of alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in the cellar, one can encounter pleasant and unexpected surprises. The result is a wine clearly distant from the stereotypical idea of a simple, easy-drinking Dolcetto.

The vineyards of Anna Maria Abbona lie along the hilltop ridges of Farigliano, which once rose from the sea, at an altitude of between 500 and 550 metres. The winery has been active since the first half of the last century. The planting of the Maioli vineyard, by Anna Maria's grandfather, dates back to 1936, when the estate's activity began. New land was subsequently acquired and further vineyards planted, reaching the current almost 15 hectares. At the dawn of the 1990s, the current owner decided to devote herself entirely to viticulture, taking the reins of the cellar. Anna Maria thus brought new technologies into the winery and introduced more modern production methods. All while ensuring that the character and identity of the wines produced always reflected tradition, with the utmost respect for the grape and the territory.

We tasted the Dogliani, wines made from 100% Dolcetto grapes.

Dogliani Sorì Dij But 2015 – 13.5%

The Sorì Dij But is produced from grapes sourced from several vineyard parcels of over 40 years of age. The yield per hectare is low, below 80 quintals per hectare. Vinification is traditional and lasts approximately one week. After malolactic fermentation, the wine ages for ten months in stainless steel before bottling.

With a concentrated ruby red colour and a slightly faded rim, the wine still shows light, fragrant and vinous aromas of the cellar. The nose opens expressing crisp notes of raspberry, redcurrant, cherry and sour cherry. The fruity range then gives way to lightly spiced tones. On the palate, the harder components of freshness and savouriness prevail over softness and an alcohol that is nonetheless well present. A medium almond finish characterises this wine, which displays in any case a beautiful drinkability.

Dogliani Superiore Maioli 2013 – 14.5%

A historic cru of Dogliani, Maioli is a small one-and-a-half hectare vineyard planted on a very steep slope. Facing south-south-west, the vineyard dates back, as mentioned, to 1936. The grape yields are very low, at around 50 quintals per hectare. In the cellar, vinification is traditional and lasts about ten days. After malolactic fermentation, Maioli ages for 22 months in stainless steel before being bottled.

Deep ruby red with violet glints, on visual examination it appears almost younger than the previous sample. An attack of sour cherry and plum fruit, followed by spiced notes of cinnamon, black tea, bitter orange, tobacco, leather, undergrowth, roasted coffee and aromatic herbs of thyme and rosemary. A broad and dynamic palate, where minerality and tannin already seem well balanced by a remarkable glyceric softness and by a very significant alcohol. A broad, harmonious wine in every component and with considerable gustatory-olfactory persistence.

Dogliani Superiore San Bernardo 2013 – 15%

Another historic cru of Dogliani, dating back to 1943, San Bernardo is a small one-hectare vineyard facing east-south-east. Like Maioli, San Bernardo also has yields of just 50 quintals per hectare. Vinification is traditional and lasts about twelve days. After malolactic fermentation, San Bernardo ages for 24 months in large wooden barrels before bottling.

A full ruby red colour. The nose is still closed and austere, a clear sign of the wine's youth. Gradually, floral notes of violet emerge alongside cherry jam, balsamic eucalyptus, spiced pepper, cocoa powder, all within a framework of fine olfactory complexity. A deep gustatory structure characterised by a particularly present yet very fine tannin, which blends perfectly with the 15 degrees of alcohol in a picture of great elegance. Closes long and flavoursome.

What can we add? That it was a true privilege to taste these outstanding expressions of Dogliani, wines of varying complexity depending on the source vineyards and on the duration and type of ageing to which they are subjected. Wines in which, in any case, Dolcetto reaches some of its finest expressions, representing in an exemplary manner a truly unique territory.