Abruzzo and Montepulciano: An Inseparable Pairing

Abruzzo, an ancient land where viticulture dates back to the Iron Age. As Ovid, a native of Sulmona, wrote: "a land rich with the gift of Ceres and even more fertile with grapes." Grapes like Montepulciano and Trebbiano, which are inseparably tied to this land.

At the end of June I had the privilege of attending the fourth edition of the AMA, the Anteprima del Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, an event held in Chieti in the magnificent setting of the Museo Archeologico La Civitella. I was able to taste many Montepulciano wines, as well as other wines from this region that is so important on the national ampelographic scene.

Abruzzo is characterized by the presence of extensive and elevated mountain ranges, including the highest peaks of the Apennines belonging to the Gran Sasso and the Massiccio della Maiella. Overall, the region is occupied by mountains for nearly two-thirds of its 10,798 km² of surface area, with the remaining portion made up of hills that gently slope down toward the Adriatic Sea.

The region's climate is influenced by altitude and the arrangement of the mountains. It is milder on the Apennine side facing the Adriatic Sea, with an average temperature of 12–16°C. Excluding some arid areas of lower Abruzzo, the region receives considerable rainfall. Precipitation is sparse along the coast, then increases at higher elevations, only to decrease again in the inland valleys sheltered from the winds. Good ventilation contributes to an overall benign climate. Luminosity is also very favorable.

Soil composition is quite varied. The eastern part of the Pescara and Chieti areas is formed by a broad hilly belt, composed predominantly of clay soils, sandstones, and sands. The western section is the most mountainous, where grayish sandstones prevail. In the extensive mountain region of L'Aquila, particularly important basins open up, consisting of clay-limestone soils and sandstones, generally compact and of medium texture. The region's water supply situation is adequate.

Within this environmental context, Abruzzo viticulture extends across approximately 32,000 hectares of vineyard, nearly half of which are planted with designation of origin varieties. Total production stands at approximately 2.5 million hectoliters of wine. The region is increasingly less regarded as a bulk producer of must, and instead as a producer of wines of good or excellent quality. Moreover, in recent years research into clonal selection has deepened, especially for native grape varieties, while we are witnessing vineyard management increasingly guided by organic principles and a reduced environmental impact.

Over 90% of Abruzzo viticulture is practiced on hillsides, with the remainder on mountain terrain, including vineyards reaching 1,000 meters where genuine heroic viticulture is practiced. As much as 56% of Abruzzo's vineyards are planted with Montepulciano, with 75% of production concentrated in the province of Chieti alone. Perhaps these figures also influenced the choice of location for the event I attended: history, culture, and Montepulciano all converge in Chieti, and the choice of the Museo della Civitella seemed more than fitting.

In Abruzzo, Montepulciano appears in the productions of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, and is also present as a blending grape in Controguerra rosso. Also made from Montepulciano grapes and of absolute distinction is Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, one of the country's most important rosé wine appellations.

During the event I had the opportunity to taste many Montepulciano and Montepulciano riserva 2013 wines ahead of their release. Alongside these, I also had the chance to taste other vintages of Montepulciano together with many other wines from the region. Below is an account of those that impressed me most.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Eikos 2013 – Agriverde

Bright ruby, complex nose with prominent fruity notes, followed by tobacco and dark spices. A full palate where fine acidity stands out alongside a tannin not yet fully tamed. A long finish with a retronasal note of liquorice.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Rubestro Riserva 2013 – Cantina Frentana

Deep ruby with garnet glints; on the nose we perceive beautiful floral notes of wisteria and violet, with a clear fruitiness of sour cherry and a spiced finish. On the palate it is already nearly in balance, with silky tannins and good glyceric softness. Fruity finish.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Le Pinciaie Riserva 2013 – I Lauri

Ruby in color, slightly lighter at the rim, it presents a broad olfactory spectrum. Blackberry jam, cherry, tobacco, then leather and a liquorice finish. A lively acidity and a beautiful tannic structure characterize the palate. A wine that foreshadows a long evolution.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Inferi Riserva 2013 – Marramiero

Deep ruby in color, on the nose it reveals all its youth. Cherry, sweet spices such as vanilla and cinnamon, a hint of tobacco. On the palate acidity is dominant, while the tannins already seem silky and very well managed. A pre-release sample not comparable to vintages such as the 1994 or the 1993 that I have already reviewed in the past. A wine that will begin to show its full appeal in no less than two years.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2013 – Cantina Bottari

Beautiful bright ruby; on the nose it is an explosion of fruit aromas: cherry, sour cherry, blackberry. Then spiced notes of nutmeg and a balsamic finish. On the palate, despite the dominance of firm components linked to its youth, it impresses with its good softness. Significant gustatory-olfactory persistence.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2013 – Tenuta I Fauri

Full ruby color. On the nose, floral and fruity notes stand out, while delicate spiced notes begin to emerge, hinting at the onset of tertiary development. A full and powerful sip that highlights a pronounced acidity, with a long menthol finish.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Impeto 2013 – Speranza

Brilliant ruby, it presents an interesting and complex olfactory range. A fruity opening with morello cherry in evidence, followed by sweet spice and tobacco notes. Further, roasted coffee notes. A flavorful palate, with vivid acidity and a very well-present tannin. Persistent.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane Pepe Nero Riserva 2006 – Stefania Pepe

A splendid Montepulciano produced by Emidio's daughter. The wine presents itself with a garnet color, still ruby at the center of the glass. Articulate nose with aromas of sour cherry jam, tobacco, chocolate, leather, and evident peppery notes. A broad palate now in balance, where the firm components are balanced by alcohol and glycerin. Long spiced finish. I enjoyed it enormously – the only non-preview Montepulciano I decided to review.

Overall, I note a particularly high quality level among the wines, especially the Montepulciano wines, which confirm themselves as inseparably linked to this land. I also note the participation of skilled, passionate producers who are conscious of the need to preserve and enhance their own territory, as evidenced by the widespread commitment to organic viticulture or at least to viticulture with a limited environmental impact.