I attended the event "La Lombardia presenta la sua carta dei vini" organized by the Associazione Go Wine a few days ago in Rome. And I had yet another personal confirmation of the journey that the Lombardia region is making in the pursuit of production excellence and wine quality. A result pursued through the commitment of a serious and determined movement of winegrowers, despite the territorial and consortium divisions that are sometimes indecipherable.
Garda, Valtellina, San Colombano, Oltrepò... and many other local appellations, under the umbrella of AS.CO.VI.LO (the Associazione Consorzi Tutela Vini Lombardi), presented some labels from their territorial offering during this Roman showcase. Obviously, the entire regional offering was not present, nor did I have the chance to taste all the available samples. Despite this, I encountered some truly unexpected surprises.
La Valtellina is one of the elect territories of Lombardian wine. It is the northernmost in the region (we are in the province of Sondrio), crossed by the Adda river and famous for its Sfurzat (dry wines made from Nebbiolo grapes obtained by vinifying long-dried grapes). There was no Sfurzat available for tasting, yet many wines of absolute quality were on hand. I tried the Saloncello 2011 by Conti Sertoli Salis, a truly interesting Nebbiolo, ruby to garnet in color, with hints of red fruit, toasted notes, and licorice. Not to mention the Valtellina Superiore Sassella 2008 by Pietro Nera, also from Nebbiolo grapes, coming from the Sassella (sub-zone of Valtellina), fragrant, aged at least 24 months in wood, rich in substance and long.
La Valcalepio encompasses the hills stretching from Lake Como to Lake Iseo in the Bergamo area. I tasted a Valcalepio bianco 2011 from the winery La Tordela, made with Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Chardonnay grapes. Floral and fruity, it strikes with its vibrant acidity on the palate.
In the province of Brescia we find – among others – the wines of Garda and the new appellation Valtenesi. I drank a Valtenesi chiaretto 2012 by Avanzi, fresh and savory, tasting of strawberry and raspberry.
A central territory in the regional and national landscape (and also of the tasting I am recounting) is Oltrepò Pavese, an area with a natural vocation for viticulture where red, white, rosé wines and Metodo Classico sparkling wines are produced. So I begin with an Oltrepò Pavese Riesling 2010 by Calatroni, a wine with beautiful acidity, fruity and particularly mineral. Then moving on to the two Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Pinot Nero-based wines from the Manuelina winery. The Brut, vinified as a white wine, characterized by a beautiful perlage and evident notes of yeast and ripe fruit; the Cruasé, with its onion-skin color obtained from a brief maceration of the grapes with their skins, with unmistakable notes of yeast and wild strawberries. Closing with the Pinot Nero Costarsa 2010 by Montelio, an interesting still version of Pinot Nero that echoes a well-executed Burgundian style.
Then we move on to San Colombano, a territory located in the province of Milan, a true source of pride for the Lombard metropolis yet contiguous to the neighboring Pavia area. Excellent was the San Colombano Metodo Classico 2010 by Nettari dei Santi, with evident notes of yeast, minerals, and fruit. I then tried the two wines presented by Carlo Giovanni Pietrasanta: the jovial Ambroeus 2011 from Bonarda and Croatina grapes, sparkling on the palate but above all lively in its gustatory and olfactory philosophy; and the more ambitious San Colombano Riserva 2007 (from barbera, croatina, and merlot grapes), characterized by tertiary toasted and spicy notes, a wine that strikes with an unexpected length.
From the Mantua area I tasted a Garda Chardonnay Meridiano 2011 by Ricchi, soft and fruity, and a Lambrusco Mantovano 80 vendemmie (the next one will be called 81 vendemmie...) by Cantina di Quistello, lively and playful like many lambrusco from the nearby Emilia.
Then closing the evening by returning to the Brescia area with the very small appellation Botticino (only about forty registered vineyard hectares), with a Botticino rosso 2011 from Cantine Scarpari (made with sangiovese, barbera, marzemino, and merlot grapes), a proper, easy-drinking wine to enjoy throughout a meal, characterized by the fruity notes of youth yet balanced with a silky, never intrusive tannin. And above all with a stunning San Martino della Battaglia Brut 2005 by Cobue, a blanc de blancs from pure Chardonnay, disgorged in November 2010 after spending about fifty months on the lees. A deep, very long wine, with a complex and articulated nose presenting notes of yeast and ripe exotic fruit, aromatic herbs, and flint. A truly great metodo classico worthy of the greatest Franciacorta.
A celebrated Lombard territory unfortunately absent from the tasting.
What do you think?
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