Casa di Grazia, a young Sicilian winery, spans around fifty hectares and has been run for over a decade by a woman of wine, Maria Grazia Di Francesco Brunetti. The winery, which operates in Gela in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria zone, is located near the Riserva Naturale Orientata of Lago di Biviere, a saltwater lake separated from the sea by a complex system of dunes just over a kilometre wide. This environment enjoys a particularly favourable microclimate for vine growing: the strong diurnal temperature swings promote the development of aromas in the grapes, while the proximity to the sea allows the breeze to caress the vineyards, drying out any humidity.
The Emiryam is a pure Syrah, a grape that some historians and ampelographers trace back to an ancient Middle Eastern variety brought, during the Greco-Roman era, to the area around Siracusa. There is even a legend that links Syrah to the Sicilian city: it is said that the Roman emperor Marco Aurelio Probo imported the grape from Egypt with the intention of cultivating it in Gaul. His legions passed through the Syracuse area and there Syrah would have put down firm roots, even though the toponym "Syra", as a name for the city of Arethusa, is already documented as far back as Ancient Greece. "Emiryam" is instead derived from a combination of Emilio and Miryam, the names of Maria Grazia's children.
The Syrah used to make Emiryam is trained using the spur-pruned cordon system at 120 metres of altitude, on calcareous and sandy soils – deep, well-drained, and of alluvial origin. The vineyard faces south, with a high planting density of 5,000 vines per hectare. The grapes, selected in the vineyard, are harvested by hand in September in small crates, so as to minimise damage to the berries as much as possible. Yields are particularly low, around 40 quintals per hectare. After a gentle destemming and crushing, the wine ferments in stainless steel tanks for about ten days at 25°C, then rests on the lees for approximately three weeks. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in barrique, where it remains for just three months, before ageing in stainless steel for roughly one year. After bottling, the wine rests for approximately six months before being released to market.
We tasted no fewer than six vintages of Emiryam, from the vintage currently on the market, 2013, all the way back to 2006, with the exception of 2007 and 2011. All of the samples tasted had an alcohol content of 14.5%. The climatic conditions of the various vintages were reconstructed thanks to the invaluable collaboration of the Istituto della Vite e del Vino of the Regione Siciliana.
Here is how it went.
2013
An overall regular vintage, both in terms of rainfall and temperature trends. The fruit set phase – late spring – was characterised by temperatures often exceeding 30°C.
The wine presents a ruby colour with a purple rim. The nose, initially closed, then opens with notes of violet, followed by fruit aromas of cherry, redcurrant, and blueberry. A light spiciness now completes an olfactory profile that denotes marked vivacity. The palate is firm, with an acidity that stimulates considerable salivation and a prominent tannin – clear signs of the sample's particular youth. A wine to wait for and revisit in the future.
2012
The 2012 vintage was distinguished by above-average rainfall and pronounced variability, including in diurnal temperature ranges. Temperatures reached peaks of 43°C in August.
The wine presents a deep ruby colour with violet glints. Fruit notes are prominent, with small red fruits, mulberry, and plum, along with hints of chestnuts. It closes with notes of sweet spices, nutmeg above all. On the palate, the tannin and acidity are well balanced by a greater softness. An extra year in bottle seems to have given this wine greater equilibrium.
2010
A particularly rainy vintage across the entire area, including the Gela zone. Even temperatures were below average – factors that we subsequently found reflected in the wine's harder components.
The wine presents a deep ruby red at the centre, with a barely faded rim. A vertical nose, with hints of black pepper, blueberry fruit, chocolate notes, fern, and a liquorice finish. The taste examination reveals a very prominent tannin, a pleasurable savoriness, and a persistent acidity, which makes it long and coherent with the olfactory phase. It seems younger than the previous vintage despite two additional years spent in bottle.
2009
A rather rainy vintage in almost every month of the year, though essentially within normal ranges from a temperature standpoint. The particular climatic conditions shaped the wine above all in terms of freshness, owing to its notable acidity, still very much present after seven years.
Ruby in colour with a barely garnet rim. On the nose it strikes for a greater complexity of aromas, ranging from red flowers to fruit of blackberry and blueberry, from pepper to tobacco, from leather to undergrowth. Balsamic finish. The palate is broad, with very fine tannins that blend with a beautiful glyceric softness. A long freshness conveys a pleasant finish of sweet liquorice. A harmonious wine.
2008
Rainfall was below average, but the vintage was distinguished by great variability. July recorded the highest heat peaks, with several days with temperatures above 40°C.
The wine presents a full ruby red at the centre of the glass, with a garnet rim. The floral opening of cyclamen gives way to spiced notes of black pepper that merge with notes of sour cherry jam and the roasted character of coffee. The palate is dynamic, where the fresh-savoury backbone and the tannin are dominant, with a finish of leather and pepper. The 2008 probably still needs further bottle ageing.
2006
A 2006 characterised by above-average rainfall, a particularly cold winter, and a cool spring. This was followed by a vegetative recovery thanks to a warm summer, with August recording peaks of 40°C.
Garnet in colour with ruby glints. An olfactory profile that denotes the greater maturity of the sample. Cherry and plum preserves, cinnamon, smoky notes. Great equilibrium on the palate, with tannins optimally integrated into the body and an acidity, now tamed, that places this sample in a dimension of fully achieved maturity. I wonder how long it will maintain this state.
This vertical tasting was a great privilege, not only for having been able to appreciate this beautiful expression of Sicilian Syrah. Six vintages, all different, where seasonal conditions shaped the wine in some cases in a very evident way. 2009 struck us as the most convincing sample, 2006 the most accomplished. But on the whole, every wine showed its own personality, highlighting its own character and a fine aptitude for evolving over time. Time will tell us more about these multiple expressions of Emiryam.
What do you think?
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