Capriano del Colle 1884 Riserva, a true discovery

The cantina San Michele is located in the production zone of Capriano del Colle, a small and little-known appellation in the Brescia area. The territory is characterized by the plateau of Monte Netto, where the vineyard extends at an altitude of approximately 100 m above the Pianura Padana, on composite soils with alternating layers of clay-limestone, debris, sand, and gravel. The vines enjoy excellent sun exposure and the territory proves particularly well-suited to viticulture.

The cantina was founded in the 1980s and is today run by cousins Mario and Elena Danesi. The vineyard, currently undergoing conversion to organic farming, is varied, comprising old vines — such as the vigna del Cirillo — and others of more recent planting. In any case, even the use of sulfur and copper has always been very limited. The cantina owns the cascina Belvedere, founded in 1884, the year that gives its name to the Capriano del Colle Riserva we tasted.

We tasted four vintages of the 1884. The most recent — 2012 and 2011 — are the result of a blend of Merlot 50%, Marzemino 40%, and Sangiovese 10%; the 2009 and 2008, on the other hand, are a blend of Marzemino 40%, Sangiovese 40%, Merlot 15%, and a remainder of Barbera. In all cases, the grapes are vinified separately. Fermentation lasts around twenty days, after which the wines rest in concrete tanks where malolactic fermentation also takes place. After racking, around March they are placed in barrique and tonneau where they age for over a year. The various wines are then blended and combined for two or three months in concrete tanks before bottling. The wine finally rests in bottle for one year before release.

Capriano del Colle 1884 Riserva 2012 – 14.5%

Merlot 50% - Marzemino 40% - Sangiovese 10%

Spring was very rainy with a slowdown in the vegetative season. Early summer was normal, while from mid-July onwards rainfall was very scarce, with a very hot August recording many days with temperatures around 40°C. Temperature swings were nonetheless contained, as even summer nights were particularly warm. The result was an early harvest compared to seasonal averages.

Brilliant ruby color. On the nose it is an explosion of red fruit — plum, blackberry, also in jam, cherry in spirit, marasca cherry, and violet as well. With time, fine spicy notes emerge, nutmeg, along with hints of powder. On the palate it strikes with its substantial structure, with softness and alcohol prevailing over the harder components, despite the great acidity that reveals all the youth of this sample. Closes on fruity notes.

Capriano del Colle 1884 Riserva 2011 – 14.5%

Merlot 50% - Marzemino 40% - Sangiovese 10%

Spring was little rainy, dry, with an early flowering. In the following months there was great variability, with June and July recording good rainfall and not very high temperatures. Harvest in the most appropriate period, essentially normal. A regular, balanced vintage.

Concentrated ruby. We immediately notice a more vertical nose compared to the previous sample. Wide the olfactory spectrum, with tobacco and black pepper prominent, then sour cherry, a stick of liquorice, and a balsamic finish. Coherent palate, with tannin, freshness, and a remarkable minerality prevailing over softness and an alcohol level that is nonetheless very well present. Very enjoyable drinking with a long finish of liquorice once again.

Capriano del Colle 1884 Riserva 2009 – 14%

Marzemino 40% - Sangiovese 40% - Merlot 15% - Barbera 5%

A rainy spring season with regular flowering, perhaps slightly early. Summer brought elevated temperatures even during harvest, when all grape varieties were picked early, though not as early as in 2012.

A impenetrable ruby color; on the nose we detect aromas of small red and black fruits, fern, morello cherries, giving way to more tertiary notes of pepper and eucalyptus. Broad palate, with now silky tannins perfectly integrated into the body and an acidity still very lively. Beautiful elegance in this sample, with a remarkable menthol-tinged gustatory-olfactory persistence.

Capriano del Colle 1884 Riserva 2008 – 13.5%

Marzemino 40% - Sangiovese 40% - Merlot 15% - Barbera 5%

2008 saw a delayed flowering, around 10 May. Spring and early summer were fairly cool, with an overall warm and balanced summer. Dry weather persisted until the end of September. Regular harvest: Merlot 15 September, Sangiovese 20 September, Marzemino 25 September.

Classic ruby color with a garnet rim. A nose that reveals the maturity of this sample: cherry jam, tobacco, undergrowth, leather. Balanced palate, with an enveloping softness that balances the tannin and acidity. Medium-length finish.

The 1884 was a true discovery for us, as indeed was the cantina San Michele. An important wine, highly terroir-driven, with a stylistically perfect 2011. We also greatly enjoyed the 2009. But overall the 1884 displayed a strong character, demonstrating how the grapes of this territory, vinified together, manage to express themselves at their best.