Tasting of the award-winning Frascati wine

We start from the territory and history of this Frascati wine

Agronomists, oenologists, winemakers and the centuries-old history of Frascati tell us that the Castelli Romani represent a territory with an extremely high wine-making vocation. The volcanic soils capable of lending elegance to the wine, the hillside positioning of the vineyards, a Mediterranean and breezy climate that guarantees health and perfect grape ripening, and furthermore a significant diurnal temperature range that favors the development of the aromatic component – all united with the enhancement of the native and traditional grape varieties that gave nobility to Frascati in a now somewhat distant past, and I think above all of Malvasia Puntinata, Greco and Bellone – constitute an extraordinary potential for the production of superior quality wines. Unfortunately for a long time, and still largely today, this enormous potential has been undermined by an overabundant production of mediocre, low-cost wines that ended up and continue to end up on the shelves of large Italian and foreign (especially British) retailers and on many tables of a certain segment of the Roman restaurant scene that remains unprepared and often a bit sloppy, selling it as table wine.

There are however several producers, with companies of various sizes, who have understood and believed in the absolute quality of this terroir and especially over the last 10-15 years have committed themselves to quality viticulture aimed at re-evaluating the Castelli Romani as an important wine-producing area deserving of recognition as such.

The energy invested in this direction has materialized in high-level labels, expressive of the territory, the vintages and the winemaking vision behind them. All while often staying below eight euros – no small matter. Quality at the right price, then.

Many have noticed that increasingly good wines are arriving from Frascati, wines that immediately express themselves through a sweet and crisp fruit combined with aromatic herb fragrances that engage with significant acidity and salinity, and that have demonstrated on more than one occasion the ability to deliver good longevity.

Wines capable of moving enthusiasts as well as attracting critics and industry insiders, and which have therefore rightly been rewarded by appearing on the wine lists of high-end restaurants, on the shelves of excellent wine shops, and earning prizes in the guides.

And it is precisely one of the representatives of this Frascati renaissance, if I may call it that, that I will tell you about today. Frascati Superiore D.O.C.G. "Poggio Verde" 2012 by "Principe Pallavicini".

Frascati Principe Pallavicini tasting - Gambero Rosso award winner

I bought it at the "Biondino" wine shop in Scauri (LT) for around 7 euros. (Awarded by "Gambero Rosso" with the regional Oscar for quality/price ratio)

In appearance it presents as straw yellow with greenish reflections and remarkable brilliance. Swirling the glass allows you to appreciate its density, due to a good alcohol level.

The nose immediately reveals sweet aromas of peach and loquat, then almond and aromatic herbs, followed by great minerality.

The entry on the palate triggers abundant salivation, confirming a high acidity which together with the notable salinity and mineral character forge the personality of this wine, in which the good alcohol level manages to integrate and offer moments of softness. On the finish, almond and aromatic herbs return – much more so than on the direct nose – along with an extraordinary minerality that lingers long on the palate.

It is a wine I enjoyed very much, so fresh and mineral, and I therefore do not wish to make predictions for its future.