Pinot Bianco Quintessenz, the emblematic wine of Alto Adige

I recently recounted the tasting of a wine that is part of the tradition of Alto Adige, with particular reference to the area of Lago di Caldaro.

I speak of the Kalterersee Classico Superiore Quintessenz – from pure Schiava grapes – from Cantina di Caldaro, a large cooperative winery in the lake area. However, if I were to suggest an emblematic wine of this magnificent wine-producing region, I would have no hesitation in naming Pinot Bianco as the most representative. Today I will therefore tell you about another wine from Cantina di Caldaro, the Pinot Bianco Quintessenz.

Pinot Bianco is a noble white-berry grape of ancient origins, most likely derived from genetic mutations of Pinot grigio, which in turn is believed to be related to Pinot nero. In the past it has often been confused with Chardonnay, with which it shares numerous characteristics. Pinot Bianco presents with small, compact clusters, very dense and cylindrical in shape. The final visual result is that the cluster resembles more or less a pine cone and, in all likelihood, the name pinot also derives from this resemblance.

It is a very early-ripening variety. Budbreak is often earlier than that of other grapes, which makes it particularly well suited to cultivation in regions considered extreme for viticulture. It is thought to have originated in Austria, although today it is widely cultivated in France and Germany. In Italy it achieves its best qualitative results in Alto Adige, where it has been present since the late nineteenth century. This wine-producing area is particularly well suited to the characteristics of the vine, which does not tolerate humid climates. Yields per hectare are very low everywhere, and this allows for the production of a highly structured and full-bodied white wine, soft and suitable for oak maturation and significant bottle ageing.

The vineyards of Pinot Bianco Quintessenz are positioned at an altitude of 550–600 m above sea level in the locality of St. Nikolaus, with an east-facing orientation. The soil is predominantly calcareous, containing alluvial sediments of glacial origin as well as fragments of dolomitic rock. These are loose, well-aerated soils ranging from neutral to alkaline. The vines are between 16 and 26 years old and the yield per hectare does not exceed 45 hectolitres.

The 2016 vintage is also very interesting. After a mild start to spring, a frigid April halted shoot growth. Thanks to the continuous work carried out in the vineyard, the subsequent phases of phenolic ripening proceeded without setbacks. The unstable beginning of the summer season was followed by fine sunny days in late August and September, a climatic situation that allowed the ripening of the grapes to reach completion in the best possible way. Harvest began in mid-September at the traditional time, allowing the Pinot Bianco to express fragrance and great aromaticity, as well as a notable acidity that we would later find in the wine.

In the cellar, the pressing of the grapes was extremely slow, thus obtaining a free-run must of the highest quality. The spontaneous fermentation of the must took place thanks to endogenous yeasts, after which the unfiltered wine was placed in 500-litre oak tonneau and in large wooden casks. The maturation on fine lees in wood lasted for 10 months with continuous bâtonnage.

Alto Adige Pinot Bianco Quintessenz 2016

The Pinot Bianco Quintessenz presents a straw-yellow colour with greenish reflections and is crystal clear. Swirling the glass produces thick tears that descend slowly: a full-bodied wine. The bouquet is intense, markedly floral and fruity: we detect notes of jasmine, hawthorn, acacia and orange blossom alongside plum, white peach and pineapple. Hay, white pepper and aromatic herbs – thyme predominantly – complete the olfactory range of a decidedly broad nose. On the palate it is delicate and soft, velvety yet energetic, with a vibrant freshness that frames mineral tones of rock. It finishes long with retronasal herbal and mineral returns.

A wine of character and extreme elegance, we particularly enjoyed it. To be paired with fish-based preparations, but also with first courses dressed with white sauces and vegetables, and with soft-rind cheeses.