Greco di Tufo Alèxandros, another gem from Colli di Lapio

We have already encountered the Campanian winery Colli di Lapio, confidently led by Clelia Romano. We came to know this cantina when we wrote about the pairing of a risotto alla zucca with the Fiano di Avellino 2009, a wine whose 2014 vintage we subsequently reviewed – a wine as remarkable as the vintage was not particularly favourable for grape production.

The winery, founded in the first half of the 1990s, is located in Arianello, a small hamlet in the municipality of Lapio, an Irpinian village situated at approximately 550 metres above sea level. Lapio is one of the few municipalities where two of the three DOCGs of the territory can be produced, namely Fiano di Avellino and Taurasi. The presence of woodland that prevents prolonged summer overheating, the dry and breezy climate, and good rainfall also facilitate the production of the third Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita wine of Irpinia, namely Greco di Tufo Alèxandròs – the wine we will discuss today, named after Clelia's third grandchild. The characteristics of the territory and of the vineyard located in the municipality of Santa Paolina, within the production area of Greco di Tufo, determine some of the optimal conditions for vine cultivation.

The calcareous soil, rich in sulphur and many other minerals, is undoubtedly ideal for a vineyard with vines over fifteen years old. The typically hilly altitude, combined with the significant temperature swings between night and day even in summer, the optimal south-facing exposure of the vineyard, and favourable drainage are all elements that endow the grapes with particularly prized qualities. The grapes are further characterised by a gradual ripening process and a superb balance between sugar content and acidity. Low yields (not exceeding 80 quintals per hectare) with scrupulous selection of grapes on the vine, integrated pest management in the vineyard, and manual harvesting complete the picture of an exceptionally high-quality raw material.

Once the grapes arrive at the cantina they are destemmed, and after the most careful draining, the free-run must ferments in stainless steel for a couple of weeks at a maximum temperature of 18°C. The wine then matures in steel for a further four months before bottling, during which four to five rackings are carried out. Vinification and ageing in steel allow the natural characteristics of this wine to be enhanced, in the finest tradition of the territory. The Greco di Tufo Alèxandros subsequently rests for a further 4 months in bottle before being released onto the market. The result is a decidedly superior-quality product.

We have already written about other Greco di Tufo wines from the area, such as the Greco di Tufo di Fonzone and the Sphera di Cennerazzo, all wines characterised by a clear fresh and savoury backbone and a beautiful minerality. The Alèxandros too does not escape the rule that distinguishes the wines of this denomination. But let us move on to the tasting notes.

Greco di Tufo Alèxandros 2016

Straw yellow in colour, crystal clear and brilliant, it presents a broad nose expressing alluring floral notes of white and yellow flowers such as jasmine and broom, fruity notes of peach, almond and exotic fruit, a spiced hint of nutmeg, with delicate hints of aromatic herbs, minerals and citrus on the finish. Soft and opulent on the palate, with an explosion of flavour thanks to the vibrant fresh and savoury sensation – as already mentioned – well balanced by a lovely softness and by an alcoholic note of over 13 degrees, which is nonetheless significant. The structure is imposing, with a dry extract of 24 grams/litre, worthy of a red wine. The overall harmony is also convincing and, ultimately, so is the wine's refinement. Very long, it closes with a persistent mineral trail, truly very pleasant.

To be drunk immediately or after a few years of cellaring, at the table the Greco di Tufo Alèxandros can accompany substantial seafood dishes as well as pasta and rice dishes with vegetables, such as asparagus risottos or lasagne with béchamel and spinach. Worth trying alongside semi-aged cheeses with moderate salting.