Beati among Abruzzo's White Wines

Last summer we managed to organize a visit to Cantina Torre dei Beati, before the owner, Fausto Albanesi, tried to take a few well-deserved days of vacation, and thanks to his great availability, by mid-morning we were in his hands, ready to visit the cantina of Torre dei Beati, nestled among the hills of contrada Poggioragone, in the municipality of Loreto Aprutino (PE). Fausto immediately shows us the winery equipment, the usual double-walled stainless steel tanks with refrigeration for temperature control, some French barriques waiting to be filled, but what he presents as his crown jewel is the sorting table, a machine on which the grapes, tipped from the crates, flow under the eyes of selectors who decide what to send or not to vinification, in order to best manage the uniformity of ripening. This is the final step of a harvest carried out in multiple passes (up to 5-6) with selection of the best clusters, leaving on the vine those that still need nature's contribution to enrich themselves and give the best of their substances.

The techniques used clearly show the pursuit of high quality at all levels, in order to obtain clean, balanced wines capable of conveying grape variety and terroir. Another peculiarity of the estate is organic farming, without the use of synthetic products in the vineyard.
Production is based only on grape varieties typical of this territory, and we will talk about the two whites. The first is truly historic in Abruzzo, the Trebbiano abruzzese, not to be confused with its cousins from Romagna and Tuscany (although it appears to be a variant of the latter) often grown with the characteristic pergola-style vines, called "capanne" here. A wine frequently snubbed for its low aromatic intensity and simplicity of aromas, if worked properly it is capable of producing wines of great finesse and elegance, with a lean body but also good longevity in the bottle.
The other is a grape variety rediscovered here and in the Marche, the Pecorino, capable of offering great sensations both with steel vinification and with wood aging, by virtue of a full structure that lacks nothing, from the freshness that allows long aging to the savouriness that closes the tasting; it produces wines rich in aromas, fruity, floral and with slightly spicy notes, depending of course on the interpretation chosen by the producer.

We taste the Trebbiano "Bianchi Grilli per la testa" seated under the shady portico in the company of Fausto, who briefly describes the wines and leaves the tasting to our thoughts, without influencing us with anticipation of what we should find in the glass. The only suggestion is his preference for enhancing the fruit and varietal character of the grape varieties. His 2011 Trebbiano had recently been released on the market, having spent some time in acacia wood, where it rests on fine lees and undergoes battonage to enrich itself and gain extract and resistance to time. As also indicated on the back label, it is a personal interpretation of a traditional white wine, which convinces us for its cleanliness and balance. On the nose, floral and fruity notes stand out with the wood's imprint present but well integrated, and absolutely pleasant on the palate too where it does not clash but accompanies the lingering aromas of the grape variety, upon which a proper savoury vein is layered. A medium-bodied wine (12%), with good acidity, certainly interesting with raw fish crudités.

Next comes the 2012 Pecorino "Giocheremo con i Fiori", unmistakable for the label featuring a drawing by Fausto's daughter, a naïve image of great impact that preludes the joy this wine is capable of offering. Clear and lively straw yellow color, with some greenish flashes, and intense aromas ranging from peach to citrus, with floral hints and notes of aromatic herbs. It never stops offering olfactory sensations, aided by the warm ambient air which quickly raises its temperature but opens up its effluvia. On the palate it is intense, fine and elegant, long-lasting, sustained by a tireless balance where a rich softness is supported by an interweaving of savouriness and freshness that guarantee great drinkability and equally good ability to remain in the bottle for a few more years to offer new sensations. 14% and you feel absolutely none of it.
Price in wine shops between 10 and 15 euros for both, with excellent guaranteed satisfaction.
For the record, Torre dei Beati also offers a range of outstanding Montepulciano wines, where even the base line delivers extraordinary quality at an absolutely competitive price (8-12 euros in wine shops). More expensive but of great merit are the award-winning Montepulciano Mazzamurello and Cocciapazza, consistently at the top according to the best guides.