Cantine d'Italia: the richness of the country in a glass

We attended another event organized by Go Wine at the Hotel Quirinale in Rome, on the occasion of the presentation of the Cantine d'Italia 2014 association guide. As always, we met passionate producers and tasted wines that we now share with you.
From Tenuta Le Velette, located in Orvieto, we tried a splendid Grechetto Sole Uve 2012, which ferments half of its mass in wood, combining floral notes and aromas of peach and apricot with remarkable freshness on the palate.

Convincing were the two Soave versions from Vicentini Agostino: the freshly bottled Vigneto terre Lunghe 2013, with chamomile notes and an evident fresh-savory component on the palate; and the Superiore Il Casale 2012, the result of a selection and late harvest, which combines a deeper chromatic aspect with a more complex bouquet of linden and white fruit notes.

Zorzettig is located in Cividale, right in the Colli Orientali del Friuli. We tasted the Ribolla Gialla 2013, a freshly bottled sample that smells of white flowers and fresh fruit; the equally young Friulano 2013, with a beautiful bright yellow-green color, fruity and floral with an almond note on the finish. Finally, the Sauvignon 2012, which combines aromas of grapefruit and elderflower with freshly cut grass.

From the Pavia-based Cantine Conte Vistarino we tried the Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero Brut 1865, a classic method sparkling wine that rests on the lees for 64 months before disgorgement. The bouquet is broad, where the dominant yeast note gradually gives way to ripe fruity and floral tones. Beautiful long perlage. The Pinot Nero Pernice 2010 is also very interesting and typical, with a nose of red fruit and undergrowth.

We tasted some interesting products from the Trentino winery De Tarczal. In particular, we tried the fruity Trentino Chardonnay 2012, the Trentino Marzemino Superiore di Isera 2010, far from ordinary and well made, and the Trentino Cabernet Franc 2008, with prominent tomato leaf aromas.

From Casale del Giglio we tasted the Madreselva 2010, a well-made Bordeaux blend (one third Cabernet Sauvignon, one third Merlot, and one third Cabernet Franc), where the fruitiness blends beautifully with spice and herbal notes, while we tried once again the ever-excellent Mater Matuta 2010, a Syrah with a complement of Petit Verdot that confirms this Lazio winery as a leader in experimentation while also demonstrating skillful use of international grape varieties.

Cantina Le Cimate is located in Giano dell'Umbria. We tried the very young and austere Sagrantino di Montefalco 2009, ink-colored with powerful tannins. After 36 months of aging, of which 8 in barrique and 4 in large barrel, it presents a fruity nose recalling small red fruit jam, licorice, and medicinal herbs. We then tasted the Meliade 2009, a very enjoyable Sagrantino passito.

But the real surprise of the evening was the other Umbrian winery, Dionigi, located in the municipality of Bevagna near Perugia. The range of wines we tasted was truly remarkable. We start with the Colli Martani Grechetto Vigna del Brillo 2012, with a beautiful bright straw-yellow color, made using the cryomaceration technique that extracts the maximum aromas while also being very fresh on the palate. The Colli Martani Grechetto Colle Sorragani 2012, more complex in its aromas thanks in part to the 6 months the wine spent in tonneau. The Sagrantino di Montefalco 2006, though still young, is beginning to show the effect of time on its enormous tannin, with toasted notes and a clear fruitiness. Full-bodied, it is powerful and very long on the palate. Not to mention the 4 passito wines the estate offers: the Civico 92 2011 from Merlot grapes dried for over three months on drying racks, with more than 150 g/l of sugar perfectly balanced by bracing acidity; the Passo Greco 2011 from Grechetto grapes, with sweet notes of apricot jam and honey; the Moscato Scialo 2010, with its classic floral aromas of citrus and musk; finishing with the Sagrantino di Montefalco passito 2009, which has a yield below 40%, powerful and balanced in its sweet and fresh-tannic components.

From Fattoria Palazzo Vecchio we tried three excellent Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The Maestro 2010 (85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Mammolo) with notes of violet, fruit, and spice; the Riserva 2008, which spends 36 months in wood, with deeper aromas of toast and leather and eucalyptus notes on the finish; concluding with the Terrarossa 2007 selection, from pure Sangiovese (and 24 months in barrel), with a fruity and spiced nose and a well-present but silky tannin.

From the Verona area comes Tenuta Chiccheri. Noteworthy is the classic method sparkling wine Cuvée del Fondatore Mompré 2009, from Chardonnay and Pinot Nero grapes, which spends 30 months on the lees. And the powerful Amarone della Valpolicella 2008, from grapes dried for approximately 4 months on drying racks, warm and soft on the palate.
From Feudi di San Gregorio we tried the Serpico 2008, from pure aglianico grapes (18 months in barrique), which displays evident fruity and toasted notes. But Feudi di San Gregorio from Irpinia extends into neighboring Basilicata, having acquired Basilisco, from which we tasted the splendid Aglianico del Vulture 2008, aged for 18 months in first and second passage barrique. Broad and powerful, it presents a fruity nose of blackberry and wild berries, spiced and balsamic.

From Pileum we tasted three versions of Cesanese del Piglio. The 2011, aged in steel only, with evident red fruit notes; the Massitum Superiore 2009, which spends 12 months in wood, more complex with aromas of vanilla and blackberry jam; concluding with the Bolla di Urbano Riserva 2010, which spends 24 months in 20-hectoliter barrels (a portion of the blend also passes through barrique), still very young but already hinting at great character and assured longevity.

From Tenuta Casteani, located in the province of Grosseto (municipality of Gavorrano), we tried the Maremma Toscana Rosso Spirito Libero 2010 from Sangiovese grapes (steel only, no sulfites), with an interesting nose of small red fruit jam; the Montereggio Massa Marittima Sessanta 2010 (80% Sangiovese, 20% Alicante) from 50-year-old vines, of which half the blend spends 10 months in second and third passage barrique, presenting aromas of blackberries, dried flowers, and toasted notes. Finishing with the Terra di Casteani 2009 (70% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot), which spends 14 months in first and second passage barrique and presents aromas of ripe fruit, herbal notes, leather, and balsamic hints on the finish.

We concluded our brief tour of Italy in Piedmont, with Amalia Cascina in Langa, located in Monforte d'Alba, one of the eleven municipalities where Barolo can be produced. We tasted the Langhe Rossese bianco 2012, from the namesake and truly rare Ligurian grape variety. The Langhe Nebbiolo 2012, young and fruity, very well made, paved the way for two versions of Barolo: the 2009, transparent garnet in color, fragrant with rose, sour cherry, toast, and still pepper, coffee, and balsamic notes; the Barolo Le Coste di Monforte 2010, from the namesake cru, mineral, spiced and fruity, with a still very evident tannin. And finally we closed with the Barbera d'Alba 2011, powerful (over 15% alcohol) and deeply colored, with clear notes of cherry in spirit, spice, and coffee.

An important tasting that once again demonstrates the ampelographic richness of the country, and how the skill and dedication of many producers allow us to experience quality products.