Montalbera is therefore synonymous with Ruché. But not only: beyond the production of other wines from the Piedmontese tradition (such as Grignolino, Moscato d'Asti and Barbera) and a fair presence of international varieties, Franco Morando, whom we previously interviewed, has chosen to invest in Nebbiolo da Barolo as well, with vineyards located in Castiglione Falletto and La Morra to round out the range.
"In the end, Barolo, for us who continue to be producers of Ruché and who want to focus heavily on this appellation, fits within our business investments as a complement to the offering we present to international markets" Franco Morando tells us. It is an elegant product, crafted according to the Montalbera philosophy, which focuses on fragrant, aromatic wines, sometimes ready to drink but never banal.
"It's obvious that you can't produce a fruit-forward Barolo, but we have sought, through work in the vineyard and during vinification, a way to extract more of the typical aromas and partly a hint of fruit". In essence, no attempt was made to create a muscular Barolo, excessively structured, from long extraction. "It was fun above all because of the astonishment from old-school Piedmontese winemaking, fixed on rigid patterns, with little initiative or innovation" Franco tells us about his range-completing Barolo.
But are we really sure? We went ahead and tasted the Barolo LEVOLUZIONE 2009. This wine, produced from grapes coming from one of the most famous wine territories in the world, ages for over 30 months in large barrels and barriques, and then another year in bottle.
It is in any case a consistent wine, judging by the tears it forms in the glass, which run down very slowly. With the color of a beautiful transparent garnet, the wine presents a particularly complex nose with notes of red fruit in jam, tobacco and liquorice. We then perceive chocolatey and spicy tones, sage and a balsamic finish of eucalyptus. Certainly a broad nose.
On the palate we appreciate an enormous wine, with an important fresh-tannic component but also with a very well-present alcohol (14.5°): a full, elegant mouth with no yielding. Certainly a young wine but with great evolutionary potential.
We partly disagree with what Franco Morando told us. It may well have been the result of a business choice aimed at completing the offer for international markets. Certainly, structure and heavy extraction were not deliberately sought. Nevertheless, this seems to us to be a great wine, in the most solid tradition of Barolo. It is probably a wine already ready and enjoyable right away. But one that, equally, will not cease to surprise us when tasted over time.
What do you think?
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