Rosa del Golfo and the experimental rosé Vigna Mazzì

In Italy, the success of rosé wines is growing. These wines are typically characterized by lightness in alcohol, freshness, and easy drinkability. These are characteristics that align with the new wine consumption trends, meeting the general approval of consumers especially during the summer season.

In particular, Puglia is the Italian region that contributes most to the production of these wines, accounting for as much as 45% of domestic rosés. And Rosa del Golfo is a forward-thinking Salento winery in this particular segment, with wines of absolute interest.

We first encountered this Apulian producer when reviewing the rosé wine that also gives the winery its name, the Rosa del Golfo 2014, a classic Salento rosé characterized by freshness and predominantly floral and fruity aromas. We then covered the Quarantale 2010, a Negroamaro-based wine of great structure and aromatic complexity – a wine best left to rest in the cellar for a few years so it can further refine and develop its sensory breadth and complexity.

At Vinitaly, I had the pleasure of meeting the owner of Rosa del Golfo, Damiano Calò. On this occasion I focused on tasting another of the winery's rosés, a very, very particular wine. A wine that seems to go against the grain of current trends for this style: we are talking about Vigna Mazzì 2014, a rosé wine born of research and experimentation that undergoes a period of wood aging.

The vineyard from which the grapes come is trained in the alberello pugliese style. The oldest vines in some cases exceed 50 years of age, and the soil is predominantly clay. Yields are low, below 50–60 q/ha with a yield of 25–30 liters of wine per quintal of grapes. The blend is composed of 90% Negroamaro and the remaining 10% Malvasia Nera leccese.

The wine is fermented in 550-liter tonneau made from different woods, including cherry, chestnut, and oak. Winemaking follows the traditional lacrima method, with alcoholic fermentation carried out by indigenous yeasts in concrete fermentation tanks. A gentle fermentation that takes place without cap breaking at a controlled temperature maintained between 15 and 18°C. The must remains in contact with the lees for 24–36 hours, so that the wine takes on its classic color before racking. At the end of winemaking, Vigna Mazzì remains in barrels for another 5–6 months and then rests for several more months in bottle.

From a climatic standpoint, 2014 was a regular vintage. But overall the year was cooler and had a higher number of rainfall events compared to the preceding and following vintages. This pattern allowed the grapes to develop higher fixed acidity, enabling the production of fresher wines.

Now for the tasting.

The wine presents itself with a beautiful robe of intense coral rosé, crystalline with ruby glints. The nose is broad and complex. Fruity aromas of cherry, marasca and raspberry blend with a seductive rosa. Then come hints of undergrowth and a delicate sweet spice. On the palate, glyceric softness admirably balances the backbone of a sharp acidity that makes the mouth water. The finish is persistent with a lingering aftertaste of dried fruit.

Tonic and refreshing, Vigna Mazzì is a true Salento rosé, a wine of breed. But it is at the same time the result of a successful experiment that disproves the assumption that rosé wines cannot be aged in wooden vessels. Vigna Mazzì 2014 is also enjoyable right away, pairing well with complex fish-based dishes such as zuppe or pasta dishes like rigatoni alla matriciana.