Fiano di Avellino Campore 2011, signed by Terredora

Walking through the pavilions of Vinitaly, we couldn't help but stop at the stand of Terredora di Paolo Mastroberardino, an Irpinian winery that almost two years ago I was lucky enough to visit in Serra di Montefusco. We then tasted the new vintages of the Falanghina, the Lacryma Christi, the Greco, the Fiano before moving on to the Aglianico, the Taurasi and the latest addition, the red passito. The wines confirm their very high level, deeply territorial and characteristic. I then lingered over a great white wine, the Fiano d'Avellino Campore of the 2011 vintage.

Despite the climatic conditions being undeniably far from straightforward, the vintage is to be considered extraordinary, at least for wines from white-berry grapes. Rainfall was good throughout the year, and from the month of August a gradual improvement in the analytical parameters of the grapes was observed. The significant diurnal temperature variations in the September-October period, right on the eve of the harvest, then allowed the accumulation of aromatic compounds on the skins – a characteristic we would later find in the wine, along with the great acidity inherent to the Fiano grape.

The Campore vineyard, from which the grapes originate, is located in the municipality of Lapio, situated in the historic region of Irpinia. The area is characterized by steep slopes, with particularly favorable sun exposure and ventilation, and a clay-based soil, therefore very compact. The territory is of rather ancient formation, dating back to the Eocene era, having emerged around 40 million years ago. The vineyard is trained using Guyot, following principles of low environmental impact. Yields are very low, not exceeding 50 quintals per hectare. The low yields allow the production of rich, high-quality grapes with high sugar concentrations.

The harvest of this Fiano is late, with an over-ripening of the grapes on the vine lasting approximately fifteen days. During this period, the finest berries are selected and subsequently harvested even into late October, depending on the vintage. This is followed by vinification with the subsequent aging on fine lees for approximately six months in French oak. Racking takes place at the end of this period: the wine is then bottled and subsequently refined for at least a further six months.

Let us see how the tasting went.

The color is a beautiful crystalline golden yellow. Swirling the glass, the wine forms thick arches on its surface with tears that descend slowly, denoting a rich material structure. The olfactory spectrum is broad. The wine releases complex fruity notes, primarily ripe yellow peach and citrus. Then acacia flowers, honey, and a flint minerality. A delicate hint of vanilla spice accompanies the long almond-tinged finish. The beautiful aromatic complexity found during the olfactory analysis appears entirely consistent with the gustatory profile of the wine. On the palate, the Fiano strikes with its exuberant acidity and significant minerality, although the alcohol and glyceric component adequately balance the wine's harder elements. Intense on the palate, it lingers for a prolonged time, with a persistence measured in minutes.

An important wine. Despite being nearly five years old, the Fiano Campore seemed to us still very young. The tertiarization process, currently at an early stage, leads us to anticipate a positive evolution in the coming years. A wine for the entire meal, to be paired with structured fish preparations or elaborate first courses with vegetables.