Poderi e Cantine Oddero, the prestige of Barolo Vigna Mondoca 2006

I went to visit Mariacristina Oddero at the historic winery, in frazione Santa Maria in the municipality of La Morra. And I lived one of the most beautiful experiences of my journey through the Langhe of Barolo.

Poderi e Cantine Oddero is one of the most historic and well-known producers of Barolo. The winery was founded over 150 years ago and, from generation to generation, continues to pass down some very important values in the wines it produces, in full respect of tradition and terroir. Today the estate is run by Mariacristina and Mariavittoria, daughters of Giacomo Oddero, a personality held in high regard not only in the Langa region, who played a very active role in the progress of the Barolo sector.

The vineyards located in the most important municipalities of the Barolo and Barbaresco zones have belonged to the Oddero family in some cases for over two centuries, as attested by ancient municipal documents from the 18th century. Around the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, grapes grown in the estate's vineyards in the municipality of La Morra began to be vinified. The construction of the oldest part of the winery dates back to that period. Then, starting in 1878, Oddero began bottling.

Today the estate owns a total of 35 hectares of vineyards, approximately half of which are planted with Nebbiolo for Barolo. In some cases, we are talking about plots in the most prestigious crus in several of the zone's municipalities. Vigna Rionda and Collaretto in Serralunga d'Alba, Mondoca di Bussia Soprana in Monforte d'Alba, Rocche di Castiglione, Fiasco and Villero in Castiglione Falletto. In La Morra, the estate also owns vines in the crus Roggeri, Capalot, San Biagio, Brunate and Bricco Chiesa, the latter situated right next to the winery. In the Langhe, we should also mention the Gallina vineyard in Neive, where Barbaresco is produced. Other estate-owned vineyards are located in Trezzo Tinella and Vinchio d'Asti.

The winery's values are based on respect for nature and terroir, as well as for the health of the consumer. The estate therefore applies mechanical weeding methods, between the rows and between individual vines; organic fertilizers are used, and where necessary, copper and sulfur are applied against the classic vine diseases – the only compounds permitted by organic production protocols. The same commitment is found in the cellar, while among the company's good practices, I would highlight the recycling of materials ranging from glass to paper, from plastic to metal, and even cork stoppers.

The estate produces approximately 160,000 bottles per year. At the winery I had the opportunity to taste a rather significant selection of wines: from the Langhe bianco 2011 to the Langhe Nebbiolo 2011; from the fresh Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2011 and 2012 to the splendid Barbaresco Gallina 2010. Then a spectacular sequence of Barolo, including many of the estate's crus. We began with the Barolo 2010 and 2011, moved on to the crus Villero 2011, Brunate 2006, Bussia Soprana Vigna Mondoca from vintages 2008 and 2006, and finished with the legendary Vigna Rionda 2005. An experience that would be hard to replicate elsewhere.

In this account I will focus on the Barolo Bussia Soprana Vigna Mondoca 2006. La Bussia is a beautiful hill located in the municipality of Monforte d'Alba. This very ancient territory (dating back to the Helvetian period), which we might already consider a cru in its own right, has been further divided into smaller plots. Such as Oddero's Vigna Mondoca, situated at 380 m above sea level with a South-West exposure. The soil is calcareous and mineral, very compact. The planting density does not exceed 4,500 vines/ha, trained using Guyot.

Great importance is given to the manual selection of grapes, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Fermentation and subsequent maceration take place in steel tanks for approximately 30 days at a controlled temperature of 28–29°C. Malolactic fermentation follows. Aging is carried out in 30-hectoliter Austrian oak barrels for 36 months, with a further maturation in bottle that takes place in the cellar for over a year. We might call it a "traditional" Barolo, obtained through long macerations and aging in large wood.

Let me now tell you about the tasting.

A wine with a deep garnet color showing no signs of fading. The nose, broad and complex, initially releases fresh floral scents of violet and gladiolus. Then particularly pleasant notes of anise, liquorice, coffee-like toastiness, leather. As the wine oxygenates, it changes in the glass. Mentholated notes now emerge, along with rhubarb, with a jammy fruitiness in the background. A broad palate, with a very great tannin, a very well-present acidity. The wine, which is in the full bloom of its youth, still has a long story ahead of it yet to be written. It closes with a persistent mineral trail with clear returns of mint.

A monumental wine, an incredible tasting experience. One of those cases where the wine must be sipped in tranquility, with the right amount of time available to fully appreciate it. A Barolo that is an emblem of great tradition and respect for terroir.