Jamais: metodo classico and solera together for a wine like no other

The winery Cascina Baricchi is located in the Langhe, on the hills of the municipality of Neviglie, overlooking the Val Tinella, not far from Barbaresco, in the province of Cuneo. Natale, son of Giovanni Simonetta, has been running this estate since 1996, which was founded in 1979. A determined winery that aims to be both traditional and innovative at the same time.

All the wines produced are the result of grapes from the winery's own vineyards, which works with the traditional Piedmontese varieties: Barbaresco, Nebbiolo, Barbera d'Alba and Dolcetto d'Alba; but also some non-native ones: Pinot Nero, Syrah and Merlot.

Cascina Baricchi also produces some metodo classico sparkling wines: a Rosé, the Visage de Canaille, from Nebbiolo grapes from Barbaresco, and a Blanc de Noir, the et Voilà from Pinot Nero grapes. The range also includes sweet wines made from late-harvest Moscato Bianco grapes affected by botrytis, and an Italian Ice Wine from Moscato Bianco grapes. Also noteworthy is the Calissaja99, a chinato Pinot Nero. Today we will instead be talking about Jamais, an Extra Brut Metodo Classico.

A distinctive and certainly unconventional product: for this reason tasting is recommended only for a public open to diversity! The wine is made from 70% Pinot Nero vinified as a white wine and 30% reserve wine obtained using the metodo solera from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Riesling and Chenin Blanc grapes affected by botrytis.

But what is the metodo solera? The soleras method, or criaderas y soleras, is a system for aging wines, rum and brandy. Essentially, the product obtained with this method contains a blend of different vintages of that product in varying proportions, which can vary depending on the result the producer wants to achieve. The traditional solera method consists of stacking the barrels according to a "pyramid/cascade" scheme, transferring the wine from year to year by gradually emptying the lower barrels and "topping up" the void left with the wine contained in the upper barrels.

The system was used in Spain and Portugal for the production of Sherry and Madeira and, only later, probably in an attempt to imitate such products, in 1812 the Englishman Benjamin Ingham experimented with the system for the aging of Marsala.

Back to our wine: the Pinot Nero is vinified as a white wine and fermented in wood, the white grapes are vinified together in stainless steel tanks and added to the reserve wine, from which, every November, a portion is drawn to obtain the cuvée. Fermentation takes place spontaneously thanks to the natural yeasts of the grape, on which the wine is left for approximately thirty months.

Now we have it in the glass: straw yellow in color with a fine and persistent perlage. From such a process, only a fragrant wine could emerge, with aromas of ripe fruit, pineapple, apple, hazelnuts, raisins and above all that particularly distinctive sweet, botrytised note. On the palate it remains very elegant, the perlage is not intrusive and the finish is good.

Another example of a truly well-made Italian product.