Opera Prima, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato

We have already discussed Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato in relation to the wines of Montalbera and Franco Morando. We return to the subject to tell the story of Opera Prima di Luca Ferraris, a different interpretation of Ruchè and its territory.

The appellation – which we recall has been a Docg since 2010 – extends over 136 hectares across 7 municipalities in the Monferrato Astigiano. In the area, around eighty producers vinify different versions of Ruchè, a niche wine made from the eponymous and rare native variety.

The grape, which certainly does not stand out for the richness of its skin's polyphenolic content, would normally yield a fragrant wine with delicate floral notes, certainly not well suited to aging. The Opera Prima project overturns this paradigm, becoming the emblem of how the interpretation of terroir, combined with careful work in the vineyard and cellar, can lead to truly surprising results.

But let us proceed in order.

The winery's history dates back to the 1920s. From an initial 4 hectares, the estate now encompasses 37, around thirty of which are under vine. With this potential, production amounts to nearly 200,000 bottles, a third of which are Ruchè.

For the creation of Opera Prima, it was essential to find the most suitable terroir. The vineyard is located in the municipality of Castagnole Monferrato, on the southern slope of the hill ridge facing Asti, and is characterized by a particular soil morphology, a favorable microclimate, and optimal exposure.

In that location the soils are sandy, mixed with rocks composed of sandstone and marl, sometimes with significant calcareous presence. These are poor soils in which the vine grows with modest vigor, an essential precondition for quality viticulture. The south-facing exposure then allows for the optimal ripening of the Ruchè grapes.

Excellence of the harvest is further ensured by the reduction of yields through cluster thinning, a practice that guarantees very low yields of just 35 quintals per hectare. The berries ripen small but with thick skins, deeply colored and with concentrated juice.

The grapes, being so rich in sugars and aromatic compounds, are then subjected to fermentation in oak vats. The grapes display particular characteristics, such as, for example, the singular richness of tannin in the seeds. The slow maceration allows for their selective extraction, which then has positive repercussions on the softness and balance of the wine. At the end of the extended fermentation, Opera Prima is racked and left to rest for 24 months in 500-liter second-use oak tonneau, to stabilize its color and refine its tannins. The fact that the tonneau are not new ensures that the varietal character of the wine is not altered by woody notes.

After bottling, the wine awaits the completion of its aging for a further 12 months in the dark in the historic family cellar carved into the tufa, where the temperature remains constant throughout the year.

We now move on to the tasting of Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato Opera Prima 2011.

In the glass, Opera Prima presents a deep ruby red color of beautiful luminosity, slightly lighter at the rim. Swirling the glass, the tears descend slowly along its sides, a sign of the wine's great structure.

On the nose it immediately strikes for its olfactory intensity and the elegance of its aromas. It first releases floral notes of rose and violet, which give way to fruity notes of cherry, small red fruits, and marasca. Then spiced notes of pepper and cloves, with a toasted finish of bitter coffee and leather. A distinctly broad nose.

On the palate the wine reveals its full class. Warm at 15 degrees and soft, it immediately shows exceptional balance with moderate acidity and well-measured tannin. As time passes, the vivid retro-olfactory returns of liquorice stand out, enveloping the palate and defining the long gustatory-olfactory persistence.

What more can be added? Perhaps that this is a wine that impresses for being traditionally itself and at the same time surprisingly modern. A wine conceived also to be tasted in a few years' time. We therefore await it with curiosity at the test of time.