I had met Roberto Sarotto in Rome, shortly before embarking on my study journey through the Langhe of Barolo. Going to visit him at his home in Neviglie was the natural consequence. It happened, of course, because I had appreciated his wines during a Roman tasting, and had come to understand the spirit with which they were made. Tradition and innovation: too tempting an opportunity, finding myself in the Langhe, not to meet Roberto at the winery.
The Azienda Agricola Roberto Sarotto is family-run and has always been tied to the world of wine. The company's philosophy is based on a deep awareness of traditional values, yet without fear of exploring and pursuing innovative paths in winemaking. The estate extends over 80 hectares of vineyards spread across the municipalities of Novello, Neive, Neviglie, Nizza Monferrato and Gavi. Here the grapes are born and mature – precious raw material that is then transported to the ultramodern winery I had the pleasure of visiting, a winery equipped with particularly innovative technology. The grapes are then transformed into the wines of the territory, allowing them to express their fullest potential.
Among the various wines I was fortunate enough to taste (from Barolo Audace to Barbaresco Gaia Principe, from the Langhe rosso Enrico to Arneis Runcneuv, to the Spumante Brut) I want to tell you about the Barbera d'Alba Elena 2012, a wine created in honor of Roberto's second daughter, from whom it takes its name.
When we talk about Barbera, we are normally inclined to think of this grape variety as the star of the Monferrato and the Astigiano, perhaps forgetting that it accounts for 30% of all the wine produced in Piedmont. And that Barbera d'Alba is also capable of reaching sensory heights certainly comparable to those of the perhaps more celebrated DOCG Barbera d'Asti and Barbera del Monferrato Superiore.
The Barbera grape is among the most widespread varieties in Italy, even though it is considered native to Piedmont, where it has been cultivated since the 17th century. As a grape, Barbera has a fairly late ripening, approximately two weeks after another Piedmontese native, Dolcetto, but before the aristocratic Nebbiolo, responsible for Piedmont's great wines, Barolo and Barbaresco. The most important characteristic of Barbera is its high acidity even at full berry ripeness, which not only enhances the wine's aging potential but also makes it very well suited to warmer climates. So much so that today Barbera is a variety cultivated in some areas of southern Italy as well. By contrast, the grape's tannin content is considered low, unlike its high level of anthocyanins, which gives the berries a dark blue, almost ink-like color.
It is a very productive variety, yielding wines with characteristics that vary depending on the vinification and aging methods used. The traditional wine is still produced by following the grape variety's natural generosity (high yields). Some versions of Barbera are lively, or at least slightly effervescent. If, on the other hand, the vineyard is managed with green pruning and low yields per hectare, the resulting grapes, after alcoholic fermentation, produce a wine capable of sustaining wood aging, even in small barrels – with sensory profiles that are often of an absolute level.
Let us now talk about the Barbera d'Alba Elena 2012. The grapes used to make this wine come from vineyards with an average age of 30 years, wonderfully south-facing. After alcoholic fermentation and racking, the wine rests for no less than 12 months in barrique, at least half of which are new, and then continues aging in bottle.
Deep ruby in color, almost the ink of the berry from which it comes, on the nose the wine is velvety and complex with toasted notes of coffee, spicy hints of pepper and vanilla, and ripe red fruits in the background. Retronasal returns of vanilla and cinnamon envelop the entire palate after the first swallow. On the palate, what strikes you is the impressive body of the wine, which wins you over with its perfect balance between notable acidity, great softness, and an alcoholic component of 16° fully integrated into the structure.
Round, rich on the palate and with a very long finish with continuous returns of liquorice and balsamic notes, it pairs perfectly with a dish of tajarin dressed with a rich meat ragù.
What do you think?
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