Castello di Neive, stronghold of Piedmontese wine

Nestled among the endless hills that seem to chase one another in a succession of vineyards and cultivated fields, the Castello di Neive, with superb elegance, seems almost to want to watch over them. The gaze is lost in that panorama, among towers and villages, as if time had stood still.
I could have spent hours gazing at the world beyond the town's low wall, even though, during my visit, a veil of fog gently covered all that Piedmontese paradise; the Castello too was wrapped in an air of mystery and charm.
Like every sommelier, I love to touch, to listen with ears and nose and to taste, feeling moved by the place and the estate where the wine is produced.
This desire is, this time, amplified — and perhaps it would be for anyone — knowing that welcoming you at the estate is the incomparable Italo Stupino and his winemaker Claudio Roggero.
Italo Stupino, current owner of the "Azienda Agricola Castello di Neive", deserves credit for rediscovering Arneis as a quality grape variety, having understood the importance and the typicity of the wine it produces.
He turned to professors at the Faculty of Agriculture in Turin, in particular to Professor Eynard, who suggested he plant an experimental vineyard in order to better study and select the right clones. From that day to this, Arneis has been established in the vineyard known as Cascina Montebertotto, an integral part of Cascina Messoirano.
These territories were purchased by Italo's grandfather, as they were considered suitable for vine cultivation, like all the other hectares belonging to the Castello.
Claudio Roggero, during my visit to the new cellar, explained to me that "the territories of the Castello di Neive were all acquired according to a sound oenological vision and a careful study of the terroir and exposure, to best suit the needs of each individual grape variety. Other territories belonging to the estate, deemed unsuitable for vine cultivation, have been given over to hazelnut groves".

The grapes used for Langhe Doc Arneis thrive on calcareous marl soil with a south/south-east exposure, and tasting it is simply a pleasure that begins with the eye and ends with an incredible gustatory persistence.
Adorned with elegant furnishings, the Castello houses in its cellars the barriques and wooden barrels destined for the ageing of the reds and in particular of the award-winning Barbaresco. Continuing along the tufa corridor, pupitres hold the bottles of the metodo classico pure Pinot nero, and in the niches covered with sand, bottles of Arneis vintages 1982 and 1999 lie at rest! Those fortunate enough to have tasted them were captivated by the intense bouquet and pleasant acidity that have remained intact over time, a testament to the excellent Arneis grape and the sand ageing.
The new cellar, certainly more functional and technical, houses machinery and stainless steel tanks; it may not be as captivating as the endless corridors of the Castello, but it is certainly useful, efficient and practically organized. The various areas are expertly divided following the different stages of the winemaking process, with particular importance given to the arrival of the grapes in the cellar to avoid any trauma and thus guarantee one hundred percent healthy raw material. To better preserve the bottled and labelled wine, the facility features a large enclosed area maintained at a constant temperature monitored by an external display.
The label on each wine, like the bottles themselves, echoes the Empire style of the Castello's interiors. For Italo, it is very important to highlight the deep connection between wine and its place of origin, making use also of the prestigious icon of the Castello.

His entire production reflects the estate's philosophy: a centuries-old tradition, but also experimentation in service of enhancing winemaking techniques.
My favourite grape variety, Pinot Nero, was superbly expressed in the Langhe Doc Pinot Nero Vigna i Cortini 2012. Elegant in its aromas and on the palate, despite being a full-bodied wine; the alcohol does not interfere with the clean notes of red fruits and sour cherries with spiced nuances, also owing to 8 months of ageing in French oak barriques.

Interesting and pleasant is the Dolcetto D'Alba Doc Basarin 2012, which expresses the full essence of this grape variety, often overshadowed by Barbaresco, but when crafted at this level it becomes a red of excellence. The nose bursts with notes of red and black berries framed by violet flowers. Velvety on the palate, a perfect pairing for cucina tipica Piemontese.